Zakopane – bon appétit!

Every tourist, coming to any part of the world, has the first two goals in mind. Reach the place of accommodation and find a place where we can eat something. The sightseeing usually is planned next. It is not different in Zakopane. There are very few accommodation facilities where you can prepare your own meals and also very few people dream about doing it during holidays. The duty of feeding tens of thousands of tourists falls therefore to various restaurants, bars and stalls.

For many people this is not a matter of the highest importance where they eat and what. It should be fast and not too expensive, after all, so many other attractions also require our attention and wallet. However, there are also some guests who like to get to know new places through culinary traditions specific for the region. Or during the holiday they have just planned a romantic dinner or an ostentatious birthday and are looking for a suitable place. Thinking about such people, we present below a brief description of what we can expect in Zakopane. If someone has the opportunity to book a table during the festival “Destination Restaurant!”, he will find out whether it is worth coming back to selected places or recommending them to others. But it may also be worth knowing what you can count on in the usual operating mode of the taverns and restaurants. It will not be a description created by a gourmet pen, which devoted a lot of time to tasting flagship dishes in selected places, precisely filling the rating tables, but based on the impressions of real tourists and locals who also sometimes like to eat outside, invite guests like in any other city.

The list opens with BUBUJA, Kosciuszki St. 18

It is a restaurant that in its menu goes far beyond the grilled pork neck and traditional cheese oscypek served warm with cranberries. In the description, we can read that her profile is: international and Polish cuisine. In fact, it is very international and sometimes we will need the waiter’s help in explaining what is in fact an exotic dish we choose. The place is very elegant, of the type “glass waiting in immaculate order on the table.” Discreet music as well as lighting. Nice service. Tables are quite far from each other, so you can talk while maintaining confidentiality. The food itself is highly praised, and the chef must be proud of it, because his name can be read on the signboard outside the building. Sometimes concerts took place here on the summer terrace. Of course, they will not be organized in the winter season, but maybe they will come back in the summer. The restaurant is conveniently located in the center, two minutes on foot from the train station, in a villa-palace opposite the Grand Hotel Stamary.

The next place is CASA MIA, Krupowki St. 69.

Inconspicuous from the outside, nicely decorated inside, although the tables are quite tightly arranged. Praised for the exceptional dishes served and a good service. It offers Mediterranean and international dishes served in a thoughtful way. What can be important, children under six are not welcome here. It is also forbidden to bring in animals. For those who plan a quiet conversation or dinner for two it is perfect. For those who will not leave children or pets in the hotel – it has minuses. However, the number of very good reviews from various sources should let us know not to avoid this intimate restaurant.

HALKA, hotel Aries, Zaruskiego St. 5

In the description, we can read that Polish, American, original, molecular, modern cuisine as well, it does combine regional traditions of Zakopane with modernity. Interestingly, for the aforementioned festival, the chef as a demonstration dish chose a beef tail and potatoes with buttermilk, but this should probably be regarded with a pinch of salt towards tradition, and not literally Polish cuisine. When it comes to decoration – with ambitions for elegance, though, like in the whole hotel, the excess of variegated prints and decorative woodcarving can make you dizzy not necessarily out of amazement. The upside is the discreet service and the tables located far from each other, conducive to business talks or romantic evenings for two. Prices are quite high, inversely proportional portions. Here you pay for quality, not quantity.

JAVORINA, Strążyska St. 1

We will find here dishes of international, Polish and Old Polish cuisine and vegetarian. This place is typical a regional inn, the interior is dominated by light wood. Very spacious, appreciated during business and family meetings. Children are welcome, they have their own toy corner. Cultural meetings, exhibitions, concerts and charity auctions take place here. Every year in winter guests can see an exhibition titled “Angels at the Tatras”, a kind of review of angelic visions performed by artists from Podhale. The downside is the rather long wait and uneven level of dishes – from wonderful, original compositions to just ordinary and not very refined. Pluses are: not intrusive music, as well as a special menu during Christmas and Easter.

GRAND KASPROWY RESTAURANT, Szymaszkowa St. 1

Located in the Kasprowy hotel on Szymaszkowa with a beautiful view of the Tatras. The kitchen is famous mainly for meat and fish dishes served from the oven or grill. There are also vegetarian dishes. Multilingual staff. The interior, designed to present the artistry of Podhale artists, overloaded with ornaments, a mix of styles and designs. Despite this – elegant, discreet, cavernous armchairs and carpets creating a climate of comfort. Recommended to adults.

Restaurant and confectionery GORALSKA TRADYCJA, Krupówki St. 29

Traditional cuisine, but in a lighter version. Beautiful interiors in the style of Zakopane architecture, on the walls are many works of art. A lot of space, maybe in excess, so you do not have the impression of coziness. A good place for elegant business meetings. The only downside is the service, quite reserved and giving a lot of time to admire the interiors and views outside the windows – there are places in Zakopane where we can feel more cordially accepted. Prices are quite high, although the portions are not huge. However, the quality rewards quantity, and the place has its loyal fans. At the entrance to the restaurant, which is located at the second floor, we can forget why we came here – on the first floor you are tempted with a showcase of cakes and tortes.

ZAKOPIANSKA, Jagiellonska St. 18

Situated in a historic Witkiewicz’s villa, it tempts with the interior atmosphere. Sometimes crowded, you need to reserve a table, other times the emptiness makes us wonder if waiters can overhear our every word. Traditional cuisine, though lighter and filtered by the personal interpretations of the chef. Nice interior, the garden, unfortunately is next to the car park in front of the supermarket. Perfect for families and intimate meetings.

MALA SZWAJCARIA, (Little Switzerland) Zamoyskiego St. 11

A place recommended by lovers of not-too-sophisticated climates and good cuisine. Sympathetic and generally quick service, although in the season, when tables are fully occupied, you may have to wait longer. European, Polish and Swiss cuisine. A child-friendly place, nicely and simply furnished. Prices are not very low, but well … we do feel like in Switzerland.

BAKOWO ZOHYLINA – WYZNIO, Pilsudskiego St. 28a

Regional tavern with live music. The highlander band plays loud (in the season every day from 18, off-season on weekends), but the spacious interior allows for conversations. Hot interiors, pelts, antlers, hearth with a bell, benches. There is also a garden and glade with barbecues and a fish pond to organize outdoor events. Service in traditional costumes, always prone to jokes. Traditional cuisine, at a decent level prepared without counting calories, we can order a jug of beer as well. For lovers of highlander climates and a casual atmosphere. Usually crowded, it’s better to book places. Not a table, because when we come, for example, two of us, they will probably place us at a large table with others, which perfectly fits the atmosphere of the restaurant. A good place for groups for integration evenings, birthdays – it is guaranteed you will forget the outside world. There are spontaneous highlander dances or musical integration with the band when an artist visits this place.

BAKOWO ZOHYLINA – NIZNIO, Piłsudskiego St. 6

Similar to its higher-placed counterpart, but with the difference that it’s smaller. So when the boys from the highlander band sing the full throat, it’s difficult to talk. However, it is located much closer to Krupowki street, just behind the pond called “oczko wodne” – which may be an advantage. The service patiently endures independently implemented ideas for arranging tables for groups, as well as an excessive cheerfulness of guests who in Zohylina (in the dialect: shelter) feel at home.

BROWAR WATRA (brewery), Zamoyskiego St. 2

We will write about this place here, though it should be more in the “concerts and entertainment” section. This is in fact the main attraction of Browar Watra, as well as definitely longer opening hours, even up to 1 am, which in the reality of Zakopane is a feat. Concerts take place here, you can dance and drink beer brewed on the spot. The dishes are rather heavy, greasy and heavily smoked, so we will not write about them. One such place in Zakopane must be.

SAMANTA CONFECTIONERY

Walking around the city, from time to time we meet the signboard of “Samanta” bakery. Known to all in Zakopane,will let you arrange a casual meeting in this cake and coffee place. Prices are very low, portions of cakes are small what tempt you to try several types, especially since the choices are considerable. If we could have any suggestion, some cakes and tortes although they are fresh they could be more moist. Generally however being here will makes us smile if we are lovers of sweets. The most crowded is the one on Krupowki street, equally nice, and definitely more quiet is located next to Atma at Kasprusie St., on Witkiewicza St. and Chramcowki St.

STRH Bistro Art Caffe, Krupowki St. 4a

The biggest advantage of this place is the view from the windows on the tree crowns, the nearby church and in a distance the mountains. The decor is modern, the menu includes good seasonal smoothies and teas. Prices are higher than in Samanta, but we have the opportunity to enjoy modern art exhibitions, photography, and posters. Friendly service, slightly too loud music, but generally a place with atmosphere.

CAFE TYGODNIK PODHALANSKI, Kosciuszki St. 3 (at the top of the Granit shopping house, an elevator to the 4th floor)

A place known mainly by the locals. Located in the old headquarters of the Tygodnik (weekly newspaper, the most popular in Zakopane) editorial office. It has inherited a unique interior divided into glazed rooms-cabinets that ensure discretion of conversation. A place for a drink, a small snack. The biggest plus – an observation deck from which you can see the panorama of High and and Western Tatras, as well as the city center from above. But even in the evening, or during a snowstorm, when the mountains are not visible, it is a good place to hide with a book or newspaper, or meet friends for a chat in a relaxed atmosphere. Waiters sometimes do not keep up with the number of orders, you cannot count on express service. But it is also not a place to hurry up.

As you can see, apart from the Casa Mia restaurant on our list there is no restaurant and tavern from the main Krupowki Street. It is difficult to recommend them to those who value peace, elegance, sophisticated service and a mix of traditional and modern menu. Those on Krupowki often have great live music (Staro Izba, Stek Chalupa, Owczarnia, Karczma po Zboju) – as long as we love highlanders’ atmosphere. The downside is the crowds and noise, sometimes long waiting for the order which is not surprise with the number of guests. The service is usually dashing and efficient, although there is no time for longer chats with them, just the minimum. The cuisine generally does not stand out as anything special, hot oscypek (regional cheese) is made with cow not sheep milk, and the meat mercilessly baked over the grill is simply unhealthy. From time to time, you can enjoy such a dish, but with a longer stay, we advise against daily dining in these places.

On Krupowki we also come across countless fast food bars in the highlander style. They serve there Goralburger (highlander burger), potato pancakes and other dishes. If we really do not have to go in there, let’s avoid these places. The quality of dishes is not great, you may be tempted to try some of these but in general we do not recommend any places where from comes annoying smell of smoke.

Of course, the list above does not present the whole offer of Zakopane. After all, there are hotel restaurants, a trout fishery, a vegan paradise of groats lovers, and milk bars serving home cooking, most often chosen by families with small children. There are dozens of places where we can eat waffles, donuts and pancakes. However, it is not worth concentrating our stay in Zakopane around these mundane pleasures, the local waffles do not differ from those in other parts of the world. Are there places that we strongly advise against? Fortunately, there are none. However, if we enter a restaurant and no one greets us, we see empty tables although it is evidently a popular meal time – either the place started its activity a week ago or something goes wrong. When we feel that the service is offend if we do not order a five-course dinner, while we just want to have two – let’s look for another place. There are quite nice restaurants in Zakopane, where waiters joke with us, they will advise what is worth ordering today and where from we will come out not only with a full stomach, but also with good memories and a will to return.

Anna Markiewicz